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WEAVES (WOVENS)

Weaving, the art of creating fabric by interlacing threads or yarns, is an ancient and traditional craft practiced by various cultures across the globe for thousands of years. The process involves interlacing horizontal threads (weft) through vertical threads (warp) to produce woven fabric. The method of interlacing can differ, resulting in a variety of weaves and intricate patterns that define the texture and style of the fabric.

Fabrics are manufactured in an extensive range of designs and styles, with different mechanisms used to create unique weaves and patterns that enhance the aesthetic appeal of garments. This intricate interplay of design and technique not only impacts the visual appeal but also influences the fabric’s durability, texture, and functionality. Understanding these weaving methods and the categories of fabrics they produce is essential for both textile innovation and design versatility. This paper explores the diverse types of weaves and provides an overview of fabrics classified under these categories, emphasizing their significance in modern and traditional textile applications.

TYPES OF WEAVE (WOVEN)

Pile Weave

Creates a three-dimensional effect by introducing an additional set of warp or weft threads that form loops or cut ends on the fabric surface, resulting in a pile or nap.
Description

Creates a three-dimensional texture by adding extra yarns that form loops or cut loops on the surface.

Characteristics:
  • Soft and plush.
  • Thick and insulating.
  • May shed or wear over time.
Examples:

Velvet, corduroy, terry cloth.

Twill Weave

Characterized by diagonal lines on the fabric surface, created by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads in a staggered pattern.
Description

Characterized by diagonal ridges or lines, formed by weaving one thread over and two (or more) threads under.

Characteristics:
  • Soft and flexible.
  • Drapes well.
  • Durable and resistant to wrinkles.
Examples:

Denim, herringbone, gabardine.

Herringbone Weave

A variation of the twill weave, featuring a zigzag pattern resembling the bones of a herring fish, achieved by reversing the direction of the twill at regular intervals.
Description

A variation of the twill weave forming a zigzag pattern resembling a fishbone.

Characteristics:
  • Decorative and textured.
  • Durable and versatile.
  • Often used in suits and outerwear.
Examples:

Wool fabrics, tweeds.

Crepe Weave

Designed to create a crinkled or pebbled texture on the fabric surface, achieved by using irregular interlacing patterns and high-twist yarns.
Description

Achieved by using highly twisted yarns and irregular weaving patterns.

Characteristics:
  • Crinkled or pebbled texture.
  • Lightweight and flowing.
  • Resistant to wrinkling.
Examples:

Crepe de Chine, georgette.

Jacquard Weave

Allows for complex patterns to be woven into the fabric by controlling each warp thread individually, often using a Jacquard loom.
Description

Complex patterns, such as florals or damasks, woven directly into the fabric using a Jacquard loom.

Characteristics:
  • Elaborate and decorative designs.
  • Can be heavy and textured.
  • Durable and versatile.
Examples:

Brocade, damask, tapestry.

Dobby Weave

Produces small, geometric patterns and textures in the fabric by controlling the warp threads with a dobby attachment on the loom.
Description

Produces small, geometric patterns in fabric using a specialized loom.

Characteristics:
  • Intricate and subtle designs.
  • Durable and textured.
  • Often used in shirting fabrics.
Examples:

Piqué, dobby cotton.

Leno Weave

Involves twisting adjacent warp threads around each other and then passing the weft thread through the twisted warp threads, creating an open, mesh-like fabric.
Description

Created by twisting adjacent warp threads around each other and interlacing the weft.

Characteristics:
  • Open and airy texture.
  • Strong and stable.
  • Resists distortion and snagging.
Examples:

Netting, sheer curtains.

Basket Weave

A variation of the plain weave, where two or more adjacent warp threads are woven together with two or more weft threads, creating a checkerboard pattern.
Description

A variation of the plain weave where two or more threads are woven together as one.

Characteristics:
  • Loose texture.
  • Can be coarse or fine.
  • Flexible but not very strong.
Examples:

Canvas, oxford fabric.

Satin Weave

Produces a smooth, lustrous fabric surface by allowing the weft yarn to float over four or more warp yarns before going under one, minimizing the number of interlacings.
Description

Produces a smooth and shiny surface by allowing yarns to float over several other yarns.

Characteristics:
  • Lustrous and smooth.
  • Less durable, prone to snags.
  • Soft and luxurious.
Examples:

Satin, charmeuse, crepe-back satin.

Plain Weave

The simplest and most common weave pattern, where each weft thread crosses over and under each warp thread alternately, forming a crisscross pattern.
Description

The simplest and most common weave, with threads crossing over and under each other alternately.

Characteristics:
  • Flat surface.
  • Durable and firm.
  • Lightweight to heavyweight fabrics.
Examples:

Muslin, Gingham, Taffeta, Chiffon

PLAIN WEAVESATIN WEAVERIBBED WEAVEBASKET WEAVETWILL WEAVEOTHERS WEAVE

RIBBED WEAVE

PLAIN WEAVE

BASKET WEAVE

TWILL WEAVE

SATIN WEAVE

OTHERS WEAVE